silverorange stuff

OMG! Don't get the 2001! The transmission for this year model 4x4 has a SHORT life expectancy. My wife purchased one off the lot before we were married and it cost us 3500$ to get it rebuilt. My brother loved the size and room it had, his(2002 4x4) tranny went out at 45k (ours at 80k). When I was calling around to find a transmission mechanic, they all knew about the 2001-2003 ford escapes. It seems that ford has a super technical transmission that doesn't last that long. I tried to get ford to fix ours for free since the shifting problem started at 25k, but since it didn't stop shifting until after warranty they refused.
So when your tranny starts not shifting very well or hesistates in shifting.. TRADE IT!! But besides the tranny, the escape comes with escalated maintence costs due to the layout of the engine, parts, ect. For example the right tire/axle assembly must be removed to replace the alternator. Which usually has a lifespan of about 100k miles anyway.
Overall this is a great car for someone who needs a peppy commuter that will travel through some snow or ice. But it's not for someone that doensn't have the pockets to shell out for extensive repair costs.

I bought a 2001 Ford Escape XLS new
and it has been a nightmare. I only have 24000 miles and I have had to replace just about everything, tires, brakes, clutch, problem with everything. Seats are breaking, tears everywhere, before and after the warranty expired, biggest piece of shit, do not buy. New battery, tires rotted away, oil leaks, yellow light always on, Ford you suck
Trucks built to last my ass, you think Ford cares, no way, got stuck with this lemon, they wouldn't even listen, anybody wants this piece of shit, sure it has a 6 cup holder, big deal, it's roomy, more shit to break, good luck

I have the 2003 model. I have had no problems. Ford rules yol. I'm black aand I'm proud. Kiss my crack imports

My first car in america FORD escape 01 XLS 4x4....it has been a fair car but not lately..Engine light is on cost me 100.00 for labor and just for check up $50 for the parts...hissing sound on the power booster needed to replace cost me 400.00 parts and labor...I asked the ford dealer why that my booster went bad..."Just bad luck buddy..sorry your waranty has expired"....I got 57K miles on it..the car has been fully paid..thinking of selling it

When I push down on my clutch pedal, it sometimes stays on the floor and I have to physically pull it up. I have a 2001 escape with 60000 miles. Anyone have any ideas to fix this problem?

I have a Escape 2001 , 47000 miles started hearing a hissing sound , turned out to be the power booster failure , of all the cars and trucks I have had over the years , I never never had a power booster , guest what it's out of warranty . The new thing , is cruise control switch on the brake pedal , took the cruise switch into ford parts , and the replacement will not fit .

I have a 2001 ford escape and it's a good car. I have over 100,000 miles on it and it still runs good. I do keep up the maintenance. The only trouble I have had is clutch problems. I have had the cluth worked on but other than that no problems. I love the car space, all the coffee holders, travels well and comfortable.

I'm buying a used 2001 4cyl 5 spd Escape this weekend with 52K miles. Wish me luck! :-) It appears to be in mint condition - just some minor rust underneath and a little leak form the rear piniuon seal ... I did read about those Continental tire and they stick - will look into replacing them ... and will try to get a full size spare into the trunk area.

have a 2001 escape xlt bought used with almost 20,000 miles in '04. seat belt light doesn't stay off but now have a "ping" sound like the seat belt isn't hooked but it is. one of the "idiot lights" comes on when i start the car, then goes off and the ping sound starts. isn't continuous but repeats at intervals. idiot light looks like it could be coolant but engine runs fine, not hot. anyone else had this problem. never seem to get much help at dealerships since they "haven't seen this problem before" in certain instances so don't want to spend a lot of money for guessing if someone else has experienced this irritation. thanks.

Bought a 2001 Escape new in '01. Ins summer of 2006 with 96000 km the tranny piled up. Ford wants $6000.00 cdn for a new one. Cheapest rebuild is $3800.00.

want to over haul engine as pisten rings are dammage in one cylender

I was going to buy a 2001 ford escape but I think Ill definitely pass on this one Ive hade too much bad luck with cars especially hondas so dont believe what they say about a car being a good car we just have to find out for ourselves but I will pass on the ford for now and I really wanted one too! Ive seen alot of people on the road with the fords so I dont know I was going to buy one for 5500 135,00 miles 2001 model but Ill move on down the road and I thought ford was built to last.

I have had issues with my 2001 Escape. Last month it was the IAC valve. This month, the transmission blew. $3300 to get it repaired and 4 mechanics I spoke to said this transmission is a disaster. I'm writing to Ford - it seems like these boards are FULL of issues with this tranny. Oh, and last year the bearings in the rear disintegrated and I had to pay 1k to get those replaced. As much as I love my Escape, I won't be buying another Ford.

Yet another satisifed (hah!) Ford customer. My tranny piled up at 80,000 km and, of course, Ford won't do anything about it. It's time to make them pay. This one almost cost me my life: I'm on the highway when the front end locked up and I had a hell of a time getting it to the side of the road. Contact me with similar stories; I'm going to a lawyer and going to see about a class-action suit. What amazes me is someone is going to get killed by this (of they haven't already) and then, and only then, will Ford do anythign about it. I won't be getting this vehicle repaired; I'm too scared to drive it again. Will never buy another Ford.

Yeh well add me to the list...clutch here too..went last night can't get into gear...also..have shutter problems , you know its too bad cause its a nice truck and all then for them to cheap on the clutch its troubling..I think i'm done with FORD ALSO...HELLO HEAR THIS FORD >>>WERE ALL DONE WITH YOUR CHEAP BUILT SHIT!!!...

well add me to the club, 2001 xls got for 7000.00 had 36,000 miles on it
in perfect condition...then as soon as i hit 50,000 miles the problems started...abs,and airbag system is malfunctioning, passenger door handle won't work from the inside. tailgate door and window won't open most of the time and the idiots who designed it did not install a handle inside to open the tailgate or window....very dangerous if you have kids...had to reprogram the alarm 4 times and now to top that off my brake power booster started hissing 2 days ago, so now thats about to go. truck is a 5 speed manual that i got for my lady and now the clutch makes a rattling noise when it's not engaged....second ford i had and will definitely be my last....

I bought my 2001 Ford Escape brand new. At 50k the Transmission failed and had to be replaced. My car now has 120k on it and Ford tells me the Transmission is trashed again. So I am up for $4,000.

This means that the transmissions are not even lasting 70k.

I anyone wants to start a class action suit, count me in!

My 2002 Escape has been great except the clutch. I noticed when i test drove a few of them that the dman clutch seemed difficult to let out without stalling the vehicle. I have always driven clutch cars...I should have walked away rigt then. I replaced my first clutch at 70K. Then 42K later, it is acting up again, though it appears it is motre than the clutch this time...the tranny is slipping even with a new clutch plate..stay tuned...

I bought a 2001 Ford Escape w/ 3,500 mi. Immediately the shifter constantly stuck in reverse and the engine had no power at all on even small hills. Then the engine maintenance light came on. Yes, I had put oil in it. Had to get new engine at 8K Miles. Also, CD player never worked and overheated...they couldn't fix that after 2 tries...Ford never would fix shifter til one year later and when they did, CAR CRASHED a month after repair work and when it stuck again really bad. This time when I forced shifter handle out of gear, car suddenly accelerated foward on it's own, into a brick wall. Gas pedal could have stuck to floor as in incident mentioned also in this column. It happened very fast and exact incident is recorded on National Highway Safety Website with another 2001 Escape. I've had two brain surgeries since the accident and now Ford is refusing to accept responsibility even though I received a letter after the accident stating the engine should be re calibrated immediately or could crash. The Ford dealer lied about the engine they put in at 8K miles. It was not a new engine and that was verified. I'm sure they didn't recalibrate it. Class action lawsuit, anyone ?. CONTACT ME> I already have a lawsuit filed if you want to join. I am looking for a law firm to move forward with case but needed to recover first. Anyone with similar 2001 Escape problems I would appreciate to hear from. chrystiehodges@yahoo.com

I Bought a 2001 Ford Escape in 03 it has everything wrong with it it is the biggist piece a junk I have ever owned Flip it over and read directions!
I recently bought a 1997 Dodge cummins nothing the matter with it I used it for a pulling truck Ford should start putting diesel motors in the Escape But not that J U N K 6.0 L And I bought a 05 Ford Mustange nothing the matter with it least ford can build some that runs right so far!

HELP!!!
I am the unfortunate owner of a 2001 Escape XLS with 107,000 miles. I started having issues at about 85k miles. The truck shudders and chugs and the engine light comes on. Several times it has quit all together and only stays running if I keep revving it (which means shifting into neutral & continuing to rev when I come to a stop. I drive my two babies around and this scares me in traffic...) The first time I brought it into the dealer, they claimed it was the spark plugs and 1 coil. $800 later, the problem was STILL there. Several months after, they looked again and claimed it was something else (I do not recall) but were not 100% certain, so I did not do the repair. NOW it it chugging badly again, and the engine light is on (same exact problem - again.) The dealer told me they witnessed the fuel pump fail & surely THIS is what has caused these problems. Another $800 repair. I drove it home from the dealer yesterday and guess what...STILL chugs and the engine light is still on! Has anyone experienced a similar problem??? Please contact me. I have lost faith in the dealer (even more so after reading these posts.) Thank you in advance!

Jen try the fuel sending unit If it is not that post a reply and I will let you now since my dad owns 21 car dealerships and a ford dealership so I will find something out if it is not the fuel sending unit.

In the beginning of this year I bought a 2001 Ford Escape XLS. I love it. It's zippy and reliable. I'm yet to have any problems with it. I wouldn't trade it in if my life depended on it.

ok i got a ford escape 01 v6 2wd. it keeps stalling when i'm stopped. ive changed the idle air control valve, fuel filter. still does samething. took it to get a diagnostic. the guy told me it was the brake booster & master cyclinder is bad. fix that & my check engine light would go off & it would stop stalling. then told me my cruise control cable was broke. funny thing cruise control was fine before i took it there now its broke. it idles at 2 rpms when i start it. i got to wait a min for it to drop down to 1 rpm. sometimes i'll be driving & it revs up by itself so i got to ride the brakes to keep it from going past the speed limit. HELP!!!!!!!!!!

I bought a 01 Ford Escape XLT 4wd new, after taking it back for the several recalls, I had to replace the rotors before the brake pads were wore out around 36K miles, and made Ford pay for them. The seat belt light and chime drives me nuts, comes on and goes off when it wants. Have to make sure the seat belt is locked and pushed in firmly. I’ve replaced the knobs on the AC panel several times because the plastic knob keeps cracking. Back door latch makes a grinding sound when locking the doors, but looks like another recalls may fix that. The engine, with 87K miles, just started running rough when idling. Ran a diagnostic test and found the #3 spark plug is misfiring. I went to change the plugs, I found out that the accelerator and cruise control cables, throttle position sensor, idle air control valve connectors, EG valve vacuum hose and regulator solenoid connector, the EGR pipe, vapor management valve, the vacuum lines and electrical connectors for the upper intake manifold, the power steering pressure sensor, the transaxle vent hose and wire bracket has to be removed before the intake manifold can be removed just to get to the back 3 plugs and coil packs. And you need some kind of hose to shove over the spark plug end to be able to reach down and screw the plug into the engine. Who designed this piece of Sh_ _ ? Ford does not want the average Joe to be able to do routine maintenance on the engine. You need special training and special tools. FORD, Fix Often Repair Daily. I have a 89 Toyota pickup with over 220K miles with little troubles. Take note Ford, someone knows how to build an engine that last.

Similar problem. I already had to replace the transmission at 45000 miles. When I hit 60,000 miles the car started having cold start and ideling problems. 3 trips to the shop and a new IAC,new spark plugs,a new battery,new air filter and one new coil and it still does exactly what it did before. This is not an uncommon problem, you'd think mechanics could figure this one out, rather than replace ,try,replace try ect.

My 2001 ford escape was the first new car I had ever bought. It had 800 miles on it when the problems began. I took on 7 years worth of payments so I have been stuck with this piece of shit. I have called Ford a thousand times and they couldn't give a damn. This piece of shit has been in the garage two hundred and twelve times and that is not including all of the recalls. But Hooray because today I am trading in this piece of shit and I am getting one made as far away from the USA as possible. When american cars are made as good or have as long of a warranty as foreign cars I will be glad to buy another..But not a shitty Ford product. I oughts to be pregnant, I oughts to be pregnant as much as Ford has screwed me I oughts to be pregnant!!!!!!

I know this is for the 2001 Ford Escapes - but I'm having the same effin problem with mine. It's a 2004 Ford Escape XLT - bought it Dec 31, 2004 with 15,000 miles on it. December 23rd, 2006(my bday and just shy of owning it for two years) the tranny up and seizes on me. NO WARNING! No light saying, hey - maybe you should take me in for a check up. NOTHING!! The airbag light flashes at me; I'm surprised that thing didn't pop out while I'm driving down the interstate and hit me in the face and cause a huge accident!!! They told me (at the Ford dealership) that it would cost me 4,000.00 to replace it....mind you I still owe Ford Credit $8,500.00!!!! Ford can go fuck themselves! I'm so in on this lawsuit if everyone else is!!

01 Ford Escape, Same problem here. I paid $10,000 a year ago and about 6 months in POW no tranny. Torque converter hub snaped off and shattered some band. At least it didn't lock up. After $2800 and a few months it started shift like crap again. I do have a 3 year warreny with this tranny. Now I am having a cold start problem and lopeing problem at idle until warmed up. Plus the airbag light is on (sometimes), horn works (sometimes), had to replace the sway bar links in the front and I think the control arm bushings are going bad.
The cruise control switch needed replaced. I replaced the cheap brake pads with ceramics and those are great, now I need to replace the junk rotors(NOT).
I can't get out from under this Hunk of Junk, still owe $8000+.
Ready for a lawsuit.

first: sorry mi english
my dad just bougth an xlt escape an i can't put cd in the dash panel. any one can help me?.. thanks ;). PD: if anyone can send me an email in english or spanish thanks

Can anyone give me any clues on how to fix this airbag light problem.
Or just tell me if its one of those thing that ford just doesn't know how to fix on the cars that (they) make.

Thank you, mumble.

try and contact your local ford service center

The following was taken from a site with a list of ford TSB's.
I am have that problem and way more.

http://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/tsb.php/m-FORD/y-2001

TSB data for: 2001 FORD ESCAPE
Bulletin Number: 18280
Sequence Number: 10013422
Date: 20041101
Component Name: 140000 AIR BAGS
Make: FORD
Model: ESCAPE
Year: 2001
Summary:
AIR BAG WARNING LAMP ON . *EH

My girlfriend has a 2001 4x4 Ford Escape with a 6 cyl, auto transmission. She is experiencing the same issue as Jen [12:25 PM December 5, 2006] where the engine light comes on and the truck starts to studder. It tends to happen when it's raining and or sitting in the rain for a couple days. She's had the computer and two coil packs, and the plugs replaced and the problem is occuring again. She's well over $1000 into this problem and it's not yet resolved. Unfortunately she lives in rural Maine so a trip to a Ford dealership is a day chore for her. Has anyone found a fix to this problem? It would be great if someone has so I can share it with her local garage and get it fixed right.
Does anyone know if the Escape has plug wires or do the coil packs connect directly to the plugs? The engine is so crammed into the compartment I am unable to see the plugs from the top. It almost has the symptoms of a plug wire that's arching.
If anyone has an idea of what could be wrong please send me an email. garyanti@hotmail.com
Thanks,
Gary

Gary,

From what I understand you have to remove the upper intake to get at the plugs. I think the coil packs either connect directly to the plugs or have real short wires to connect them.
My 01 is in the shop right now for a cold start and lopeing, almost stalling problem. It got worse in 1 days time. I have never had the check engine light come on though. It seems to me to have an overloading problem. Will let you know what my problem turns out to be and if it actually takes care of the problem.

I'm having the same problem as Jen and Gary - the car shudders and runs very rough in raining & cold conditions, and the engine light comes on. I've taken to the dealership 5+ times for the same problem over the last 6 months, and they keep saying it's the coils. I even took the car to a second dealership and was given the same diagnosis. Each time I do the work they suggest, but it doesn't fix anything for more than a week or two. The next time it rains the problem happens again (typically on a different coil). And, when I took it in two weeks ago they said the spark plugs had water in them.

I have my 01 escape back from my local shop and it turned out to be a cracked upper intake gasket. There are 6 rounded rectangular shaped gaskets that that seal the upper and lower intakes. A smoke machine was used to find the leak. This was 2 days ago and for 2 cold mornings now I have had no problems.
My check engine light never came on though. Can't hurt to have your mechanic check for intake gasket leaks. This will cause cold morning / day start problems.

Well it's been a week and I have had no cold start problems. I guess it was the intake gasket that caused the problem. These gaskets are reused when a tune-up is preformed. This could be why the ford dealers are missing the fix. When they change spark plugs and coils. Then reseal the intake with the original gaskets it fixed the problem for a short time.
To all that have a cold start problem and rough idle until warmed up, have a mechanic check for an intake gasket leak. If they refuse and say thats not it, find a mechanic that will. I would almost bet that this will fix the problem.
I hope that this post helps someone.

Anyone thinking of buying a 2001 Ford Escape should seriously consider an alternative vehicle. I really enjoyed driving my Escape until around 80K kms when the tranny failed (does this sould familiar to anyone?). I had it repaired for $3200.00 at the local Ford dealership. Three days later, a catastrophic failure, the tranny had to be completely rebuilt again, at least no cost to me. Well, that was about 30K kms ago and guess what, another complete failure of my tranny and Ford says they want $3400.00 this time around. Where's the justice? Their claim is that my Ford never had a tranny cooler on it and that caused the failure. If this is a known cause for crashing tranny's, why in the world wouldn't Ford install these?

I have a 2002 Ford Escape with 86,000 miles. I service my vehicle every 3,000 miles and without warning I'm hearing a awful clunking noise under the hood. I immediately pulled over and had the car towed the next day to a garage. Of course it's only 28 degrees below zero (& a windchill of 40 below)in Minnesota when the car fails. The garage is telling me I'll need to replace the engine (rebuilt/used) and that the steering rack is leaking. Anyone else have similar problems?

I am so glad I came across this post. I am feeling a little better knowing I am not the only person who has had repeated issues with the Escape.
I bought mine brand new in 01, only had 4 miles on it. I should have known better than to buy a new model vehicle but I thought it look good and at the time it drove good. 86,000 miles later I have had transmission problems, replaced the IAC valve twice and my brakes stick because of a bad sensor that I have replaced twice as well. Contacting ford doesn't do any good, not under warranty, not their problem. When I first bought my car I had a tough time with what they call the PCM, apparently it is what tells your car to go. I would be stopped and the car would go, it darted into traffic one day, grateful I didn't hit anyone. I argued with ford over this issue for months at the time the car was only 3 months old, the only solution they tried to give me was.."well, we can give you an additional 10,000 miles on your warranty", um, okay...but what if the car shoots back out into traffic, I hurt someone and myself and the car is totaled, what good does that warranty do me?
I made them call in someone to fix the car, they sent someone from the Ford Factory in Atlanta, GA. He knew exactly what the problem was and told me then that it was going to be a recall.
Not only did the DEALER I bought the car from make me mad but when I called ford corporate they just blew me off.
I can tell you this...those survey's they send you in the mail are for BLUE OVAL certified dealers, they have to maintain certian customer satisfaction to keep that. So when you get that survey..please fill it out and send it in. I know that it doesn't seem like a lot, but if we all send that in, maybe just maybe we can prevent people from having the same problems as us.
If someone decides to have a class action lawsuit...oh, ya call me. I want the day that I get to stand up and say, you guys treated us like $$ signs and your car took our $$.

My 2001 Escape XLS is back in the shop again. I bought it brand new in 2001. The first problem I had was a collapsed fuel dampner after the first 9 mos. This was fixed and I had no real problems (with the exception of a pinion leak and power steering leak) up until the last 7 mos. The problem now is if it gets driven more than 10 miles it doesn't hold an idle after it has been parked and restarted. If you take your foot off the gas it just dies. Six weeks ago they put in a new exhaust backpressure sensor, which did not solve the problem. I'm now finding out that it is the IAC valve that has had so many complaints. Not planning on keeping this vehicle since I can't rely on it.

Add me to the clutch problems. I bought my car used, certified, and stupidly. It had 45,000 miles on it, and it's a manuel. Last week, the clutch started to saty down. Then today, the clutch would go down, and wouldn't come back up again. I had to hook my foot around it, just so it would come back up. Then it would go back to normal for a few miles. Next thing I know, the same thing... And then, it wouldn't go down at all. I had to pull over on the freeway and put my hazards on. I finally got it to the Ford place in my city, and it was toast. Now they're checking it out, and quoting me anywhere from $600-$12,000. They say this particular clutch problem isn't covered under my warranty. If this is the case, I'm writing letters. SCREW FORD!

I bought 2001 Escape FWD v6 with auto trans new - 82k later, transmission is starting to slip - I credit 80k due to changing transmission fluid twice - Ford transmissions are bad across several models - not just escapes. Noticed a few readers had trouble with seat belt light staying on or causing problems - this happened to me and I discovered a loose connection underneath the seat. Each time the car wash person cleaned interior, they would hit it, the light goes on.. I thought it was related to water at first. Problem solved - and saved $$ from dealer trying to sell me replacement sensors.

hi guys i got a 2002 maverick had many probs but sorted under warranty. its 2.0 petrol manual transmition. just had new clutch fitted under warranty. to get rid of judder. great judder gone now. but when i put foot on clutch to start or pull away i get vibration from pedal. dealers say its a characteristic of the maverick as there so much space under the bonnet. has anyone had similar probs please help as im going mad

regards jeff

I have a 2001 Ford Escapae XLT. The problems with this car are: air bag light is constantly on, passenger door handle will not open from outside, tailgate door does not open up all the time, the transmission crapped out at 80,000 + miles while driving on the highway. The transmission cost me $2400 to fix. After reading the comments posted here I will never buy another FORD Escape again, maybe another FORD for that matter.

I have a 2001 Ford Escape, 5-speed standard. This vehicle has been great for us, it's coming up on 270,000 kilometers and has had very little in the way of maintenance beyond the typical brakes and tires.

In fact, while I did not realize this had a rubber timing belt, I am just getting it replaced now (it should be done every 100k->150k according to the
garage).

I would purchase another in a heartbeat.

Several of you have mentioned rough idling with the engine light coming on and off. Has anyone been able to get this problem fixed? If so, what was the problem? Thanks. My 2002 Ford Escape XLT just started doing this at 60k miles.

Tank--I have had the same problems with my 2002 Escape for the past two months. First I was told I needed sludge cleaned out of my oil, a new filter, new gas filter and air filter. A week later, when it rained and was cold out, same problem. My car never actually died, but it would idle like it was suffocating, then the CEL would flash on and off. Next they told me I needed a tune-up (I am at 79,000mi) and new plugs. Did that, a week later, same problem. (We're $450 into it, now) Then I had to have the fuel-injector replaced (Another $350), Another week later, it rained, and same problem. Ford said they were replacing the computer, that it was still under warranty and I owed then nothing for that. The dealer ssaid he is 'confident' they have fixed the problem. Leaving town on Friday with my two year old daughter and am terrified to drive it, in fact I only drive it if I absolutely have to. Maybe the problem is fixed, but I am skeptical. Let me know if anyone else went the same route I did with this annoying and expensive! problem.

I have 2001 Ford Escape XLT. This last fall my engine would start idling funny. This would occur sporadically and usually when I came to a stop and sat idling. The dealership changed the plugs (expensive platinum plugs), replaced the gas line filter, air filter, and flushed the fuel line (about $500). The problem stopped for a short period. I had brought my escape in a few times off and on throughout the fall after that for reoccurring odd idle but the dealership could not troubleshoot it. The code for the CEL indicated a faulty coil but they tested the coil which turned out to be fine. Around December, my escape starting idling real funny and drove terribly. I brought it into the dealership to have the coil replaced ($700) and everything has been fine until now (May). It is acting up again. I wish I could figure out what the real problem is. Replacing coils is an expensive repair.

I also have a 2001 Ford Escape XLS 4-speed which I bought brand new. I have experienced a few of the problems mentioned above. I have around 86K on mine. Today it was very hot and on my way home from work I had to make a couple of stops. After the third stop I started the car and it died right away. As soon as I took my foot of the gas to slow down or stop my car died. I had to pop it into neutral when it was time to go, start it and put into first and gun it so that it would not die. Of course I caught every light on the way home but I made it home. After letting it sit for a couple of hours I took it for a test around the block and it seemed fine.

Is this a symptom of the transmission? Sometimes it idles funny too.

After reading this I am thinking of trading it in and buying something else.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated !!

Good luck to us all.

So my car has been running good for close to a month, my husband has been driving it to work, but he told me this morning that it started acting up (idles) again yesterday (it rained most of the day). Raining again today, so we'll see what happens. I honestly can't figure out what is wrong with this car (have had the oil filter, gas filter, air filter replaced; a tune-up, all new plugs, new fuel-injector, and a new computer.)

Any suggestions out there?

127k on my 2001 Ford Escape XLS bought it brand new (2001). I have had the minor repairs such as brakes, rotars, tires, clutch, oil change always on time, tune up. I also had the Check engine light on which i had to get a new EGR valve and senor (150 in parts + 150 labor) This was needed to pass smog. The airbag sensor is on. I had the seatbelts replaced by factory there was a recall in 2003. So after my clutch repair, (the clutch would not go down it was stuck) I am now having problems getting into gear. The escape refuses to easily go to first so I have to go to third then second and force first...sometimes i move through that to 2nd. Its strange sometimes it acts up then sometimes its fine. In traffic it is a real pain. Any ideas on the cause of this? Same issues anyone?

Other then that I love the car it has great gas milage and has served me pretty well. Good luck on everyone else's problems...

On a cold or cool day, my 01 Escape runs rough. I got a Code Machine and it indicated "PO352" trouble code which is a bad plug coil. I then replaced all plug coils (6). This did not fix the problem. It's summer now and Engine Light has gone off and car runs fine. But, in winter it will resume its problems. No other problems with this car. I'm going to replace the intake gasket and see if this fixes it. Sometimes the Trouble Codes don't really indicate the true problem. Go figure. No more Fords for me. Email me at houndoffinn@hotmail.com for pointers.

I bought my 2001 Ford Escape XLT in 2003 and I have loved every minute of it. HOWEVER...I have started to have some problems. It's got about 107,000 miles on it and only recently have problems arose. I got in a bad accident a few years ago (i was hit straight in the backside) so I had to get the back door replaced (as well as MANY other parts) and ever since then, the tailgate and window will only open some of the time. I'm guessing thats the fault of the mechanics, though. Ive had random lights going off on the dash, and my sunroof hardly ever works. The car acts funky when driving through water, and for years theres been a nasty clunking noise underneath in the chassis area whenever I go over bumps (even small bumps). That could have to do with the accident I had, though. Also, the alarm will go off at any random time and will not turn off for ANYTHING...and theres not fuse in the horn spot so I couldn't even take it out to turn it off! About a week ago, a hissing noise started happening every time the brake was released. It turns off when I tap the brake but its annoying! I found out it was probably the brake booster vaccuum..which is AWESOME. (not!). All in all though, I love my escape...honestly. When "zippi" bites the dust, I'll definitely buy another one.

I am an owner of a 2001 Ford Escape XLS 4x2 and my transmission has also just given up. I'm not able to pay the over 3 grand they want for a rebuilt so I was looking into getting one from a reckers. Does anyone know what years are compatable? By the way this one has made it to 324,000 KLM so I don't think that is too shabby. But I just need atleast one more year out of it.

My 2001 XLT 4X4 needed a new tranmission at 70,000 miles. It cost $3000 for a rebuild. I've followed the maintenance schedule perfectly and babied the car. This must be a design flaw.

My 2001 4 cyl. stalls after driving for awhile when it's hot outside. I can keep it running by holding down the gas pedal. It started last summer, ran fine all winter, and now it's doing it again. I replaced the EGR valve, with no change. Help!

I have a 2001 3.0L V6. It periodically has a rough idle, usually during winter, sometimes with the CEL. Also, sometimes the gas pedal felt stuck and I had to really whack it to move it. I found the problem to be the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve in the throttle body (for the V6, it's the cylindrical part sitting right on top of the engine after you take the plastic cover off). If you need help finding it have someone press on the gas pedal and you can see where the cable opens and shuts the butterfly valve for the throttle body. The IAC is attached straight to the throttle body to allow air to flow during idling (when the butterfly valve is closed). The problem with the IAC is that it gets gummed up. To fix it all I had to do was take the IAC valve off and squirt throttle body cleaner in there and scrub around with a toothbrush. Be careful not to squirt the cleaner on the wires. The sticky gas pedal means the butterfly valve is gummed up too, so while you have the IAC valve off, squirt the cleaner in there and scrub while you open and shut the valve by hand. Hope this helps.

I just bought an 01 Escape XLS 4x4 V6 3.0L with 56,000 miles on it (I thought I got a good deal, now after reading all of this I'm not so sure.) I've had it for 2 weeks and it was in the shop 3 days after I picked it up. Turned out it was the brake booster (the truck made a terrible hissing sound.) It was free for me since I have 60 days "worry free" according to law. I'm calling the dealership tomorrow about how it seems to shift on the rough side and at least once a day it shudders when shifting up or down. I've read on another review site that this problem was resolved by reprogramming the PCM, of course I'd like to get them to replace the transmission if I can since it looks like this will be unavoidable. Anyone else have this problem with the truck shifting and shuddering? I can't make it do it, seems to have a mind of its own.

Michael,
My 01 Escape XLS 4x4 had the shudder problem. Not sure if that is one of the reasons for the tranny going out though. Mine would shudder when shifting out of OD with the trans under a load. Like climbing a hill and it down shifts out of OD. I still have a shifting problem with the rebuilt trans. When I slow down to make a turn or slow down for a red light and then give it gas to speed up it shifts hard into a lower gear. The shop said that there was nothing wrong with it. They said I am just catching it between gears and that is why it is shifting hard into gear.
Good Luck with your Escape.

Bought our 2001 Ford Escape used... first mistake. Trouble with bearings that can't be fixed... after 3 tries. NOW THE TRANSMISSION IS GONSKY!!! One click underneath as the trouble began.... lost all forward motion, had to drive in reverse on a windy mountain road, on the wrong side of the highway...... piece of junk.... hate it... sign me up for the class action suit.

Well add me to the list. I bought my 2001 Ford Escape XLT 4x4 new, it has 107,000 miles on it and has been nothing but trouble. I'm at over $4,000 in repairs, luckily the transmission hasnt gone out yet, but I am taking it to the shop tomorrow. I have gone through 2 EGR valves in the past 3 months, it looks as though they have both blown up on me, with holes all over them. Both times it has happened on the highway when I am going 70 mph. It makes a hissing noise when you accelerate, well, we replaced the egr valve again on Saturday and the vehicle is idling terribly and feels as though its going to die. Its going to the shop tomorrow to be put on the computer to see what the hell is wrong with it. I will never buy another Ford again. This is my second Ford and they both are fucked up.

Tommy

If you have any suggestions on what the problem could be email me at KYpride686@firstva.com

I own a 2001 ford escape xls and it was been absolutely awesome. Im from canada and have 120 000 kms on it and its ran great for all of them excellent mileage, excellent power, i have kept routine maintance on it and i have no complaints maybe mine is made out of a canadian plant, i could be completely wrong, just a thought.

I'm trying to replace the brake pads on my 2005 Ford Escape and don't seem to have the right tool. None of the wreches seem to be the right one. Has anyone replace the brake pads themselves?

Thanks.

I bought my escape a year and a half a go used with 85,000 miles on it. I was so excited then shortly after I started having the shudder and idle rough problem also. I noticed it would stop after the truck warmed up. I read we didn't have to wait for the truck to warm up in the owners guide! I do because of the shuddering its like why make it go when its does not want to. I like driving on the beach which requires 4 wheel drive and thats why I purchased one with 4x4. I don't know if I am alone in this problem but I was driving one day on the beach with the 4 wheel drive on and thought I was doing fine till the truck started having a hard time and then I was stuck. My light was on but when I looked out the window my front tires turned but my back ones sat there. I took it to the FORD dealership where I barely got any service and they left me to sit for over an hour when I realized they were doing nothing to my truck! They said they did a dianostic test and found nothing when I tried it out after I finally got my truck it did not work then I called them back and got another story they put it on the lift and all the wheels turned. I carried it to someone else and watched them. They said bring it back I say no way, why? to be over charged and under serviced with lies! On the lift the tires turn but off they do not. I want to know why! I know it does not work, otherwise I would not have gotten my front tires buried can anyone help me? I am afraid of having the problems like many others with the tranny. What should I do? FORD BUILT BULL SHIT TOUGH!!!!!!!

2001 Ford Escape XLT with 175,000 miles and not a SINGLE thing wrong to date! SOLID compact 4X4 choice for anybody!

I got a 2002 Ford Escape about 6 months ago and I love it. The only thing is I can't get my CD player to work. It says the CD slot is full but everytime I try to ej the cds it says cd error. Does anyone know what to do?? If not does anyone know how to take it out so my husband can put me a new cd player in it??

I bought my 2002 Ford Escape used from Wendle Ford in Spokane. Bought it with 60,000 miles and it seemed in good shape at the time, not that I would know anyway. We had a sudden engine and tranny failure at about 67,000 miles. Cost to repair could be as high as $11,000. The dealer will do nothing. Ford corporate has offered nothing. I own two old Toyotas and I thought I was doing this country a good thing by purchasing an American brand such as Ford. If Wendle Ford or Ford Corporate decides to take responsibility I probably would try a Ford again. But since that is unlikely to happen, I guess I'll send my money to Japan on my next Toyota and get more than 7,000 miles out of my investment. If anyone has had better luck with their dealer or with Ford corporate on fixing these problems, I'd like to know your magic. spokanekevin@hotmail.com

I have a 2001 escape with 247K on it. The transmission packed it in last week and the cause of the failure appeared to be the lack of a transmission fluid cooler. I've also replaced the fuel pump. The latest nonsense with this vehicle is the tailgate jamming in the locked position. No inside release and no manual key entry from outside. I have no clue as to how to fix this problem but its very annoying. Has anyone figured out how to fix this???

Another fix or repair daily victim

I've discovered the fix to the 2001 ford escape hatch lock problem:

I bought this actuator to replace the rear hatch actuator for my 2001 Ford Escape rear hatch/glass door. Ford dealer wanted over $200 because you have to buy the whole interior assembly. If they replace it, another $100+. I had to drill one hole, hook up the wires--green to striped, and find a lock nut and screw to fit the plunger end. This may not be the highest quality device and does get warm if voltage is applied longer than necessary. It probably does not have brushes as someone stated--probably permanent magnet, but still can be burnt up if overused. I'm real happy--good price--fast shipping--working great.

www.allelectronics.com

water leaks in when it rains and gets worst when I am driving. The waters enters from the right from side and floods the passenger floor but seats, dash, etc not wet. When I lift the right window it is wet too. It seems that the leak is somewhere on the side and not in front. Does anyone know or have had a similar problem with ford escape 2001 or any escape?

To Phil asking about Escape brake pads - I replaced (front) pads on my Sis' Escape. The job was pretty straightforward and I sure don't recall having to use any wrenches. But nonetheless, keep in mind they will be metric sizes if you see need for use of them. The only tools I used were a hammer (for removing the whole assembly at first) and then the old big C-Clamp (for depressing the plunger when you're ready to put the assembly back on.

2002 Ford Escape - has anyone here experienced a sort of grinding noise only on hot days, which seems to be coming from the steering column or nearabouts? Not neccessarily when the car is warmed up from running, just after car has heated from hot weather ????????????????????

Well guys i want to thank you all for posting your experiences with the Ford Escape cause i was gonna get the 2008 model,i actually test drive it and it gave a really hard kick when i put it in drive i figured the tranny was not gonna last very long.Ford'd just out to make money not Quality vehicles gonna get a toyota instead,thanks.

CHECK ALL THE RECALLS ON 2001-2004 THERE ARE ALOT OF THEM DATING BACK TO 2000 ALL THE WAY UP TO 3-07 MOST OF THE PROBLEMS YALL ARE HAVING MAY HAVE NEVER BEEN REPAIRED FROM RECALL AND YOU HAVE BEEN WASTING MONEY$$$$$$$$$

My 2001 Ford Escape is not allowing the rear hatch to open. The fuses look fine, the rest of the doors unlock, but for some reason the rear hatch will not unlock or open, any recommendations or help? Thanks!

I have a 2001 ford xlt 4x4. i bought it with 45,000 miles on it. I have had air bag lights go on and other dummy lights as well.I was told once that manufacturers make the cars do "check engine" so you take it in for its checkups. and you know what happens when you go for a checkup????? $$$$$$$$!!!!! always these lights go out. i have noticed they come on somewhere within 800 miles of next checkup.however for me they eventually go out.one time it lasted several hundreds of miles...but did go out. last time a couple of days. I am at 85,000 miles and my brakes are hissing yet my brakes are working as normal as ever.from what im reading i will need a brake booster. and from what im reading in about 20,000 more miles i will need a transmission. This makes me very nervous. i am going to investigate the "smart car" which will be sold in the u.s in 2008. either that or toyota. 85,000 miles brake booster??? ford sucks!

2001 escape xlt; purchased brand new. now at 117,000 miles. add me to the tranny list :<
although it does appear i did better than most of you.

My 2001 Escape has the rotten bearings problem. Other than that it hasn't been too bad. 87k miles on it. Tranny is still working(for now), knock on wood. $700 for rear bearings on a 6 year old car doesn't make sense to me though.

I bought a 2001 Ford XLT v6 4x4 and currently have around 110k on it. It has been, for the most part, a great vehicle. It has been in an accident and had rear parts replaced with no problems. The problems I have had over the years have been:
Scheduled maintenance
All the factory recalls (no big deal)
Temp. sensor failure (twice)
Rough idle (spark plugs needed replacing at 100k)
Cold rough idle (currently changing the ICV for this)
Door linings needed reglued
Replaced windshield glass (big crack resulting from stone hitting it)
Fixed broken plastic temp. control switch (odd thing to have happen)

Overall, none of this seems like a big deal to me. All parts wear out eventually on a vehicle it seems like a lot of people here are whining a lot except for the tranny folks which is a problem I hope I don't encounter! All in all not a bad experience so far.

My two bits for people with rough idle - My 2 causes have been spark plugs & the ICV (Idle Control Valve). The spark plug issue was simply needing new spark plugs after 100k miles which is scheduled maintenance. This issue cause the car to stall whenever it was idling usually when hot. The second idle issue I'm having is car will stall when idling cold but is ok after it warms up. The dealer believes this to be a stuck ICV so we'll see what happens.

My advice for people who hate the original tires, this is a no-brainer people, get better tires! I switched to a set of Michelins when the original set wore out & these have been fantastic!

For those people whining about how difficult it is to repair hard-to-reach parts, get over it. Most new cars today are very complicated & are computer controlled. You have to use a mechanic for the computer stuff alone. Most of the parts I've had to have replaced I wanted to mechanics to do so I wouldn't mess anything up. I wonder how many people try to fix something themselves & end up messing something else up.

2002 Escape XLS 4X4 - 102,000 miles - Not really any major problems but it is starting to act up now. I noticed the transmission got a little rough at about 70,000 miles but it has not crapped out (know on wood) yet). Just not as smooth shifting when gaining speed or going up hill.
But, just recently, at 102,000 miles it will not start without giving it gas and when I am in an idle or coasting under 10MPH the engine just shuts off. I brought it to one place and they told me too clean the fuel system ($200). That did not do the trick...but may it was needed at this time anyway? So, I brought it to another place and they seemed really knowledgeable.....REPLACE the IDLE AIR VALVE ($135), REPLACE SPARK PLUGS ($350), REPLACE WATER and SERP BELT ($110). This seems to have done the trick but will update in a week or two.

They did tell me the battery is weak, and all of the fluids need to be cleaned. The tran fluid, steering, brake, and differentual fluids are all pretty dirty. So that work$$$$ should be coming up soon.

Overall, I have only got oil changes on this car for the last 6 years and the work I have just recently spent money on is considerred normal mantainence considerring I have just hit 100,000 miles. Not too bad.
(knock on wood).

I've been feeling the transmission slip for the last 5k miles and I just turned over 130,000 last week -- I fear that it's going. That said, there is a low humming noise that my mechanic is trying to figure out today/tomorrow, so I came online to research. He thought it was the fuel filter or the fuel pump (the humming actually sounds like it's in the back of the truck, so it's in that vicinity). Then he called me up and told me they researched it and found some defect that connected the fuel pump to the radio??????? He said when they turned the radio up the humming increased. Anyone heard of this? I'm going to keep searching... thanks!

Okay.... they found out the humming is NOT connected to the fuel pump -- but it IS electrical somewhere and definitely comes FROM the radio. I turn the radio off and the noise goes completely away (which I hadn't noticed before, I just turned the radio DOWN before and still hear the noise). Anyone with experience on where we should look for the crossover?

My girlfriend just bought an 01 Ford Escape, with 90 k on it. She has had it about 2 weeks now and the coolant light has some on and doesnt really seem to be going away. I flushed the system myself, added in a new thermostat and gasket and the light is still on. Any suggestions, or did we just find this website a little to late?

Hi David,
I have a 2001 Escape XLT, many of the same problems as listed above. 80,000 miles on it. The "check coolant" light has been on for about 15,000 miles. It's a short. Sorry that you went through the trouble of flushing out the system.

My lemon is at the dealer AGAIN, this time for the stalling problem. When I start it up, idles and shudders like it's going to stall. Have to give it gas. At stoplights, same thing. At first, just seemed to be in the AM and within a day, it got much worse.

Confused as to whether this problem is the:
IAC valve
Spark plugs or coils
The upper intake gasket

The dealer jumped to the most expensive fix immediately, without really "identifying" the problem. Fuel pump! $700. No thanks.... Will take it to someone who actually pinpoints a problem first. Any suggestions? I live in chilly Minneapolis, MN.

Erin

2002 Escape, powertrain has been good thus far (knock knock). Issue we are having is the back hatch will not unlock and thus we are unable to open it. It seems to happen more often when hot outside, then when it cools down it will unlock and open again. Is this a simple lubrication problem or tired motor?

Randy

I purchased a 2001 escape XLT (used with 45K miles on it and love it.I haven't had a single problem with it over the past 3 yrs. Only oil changes.Now I need a 60,000 mile tune-up and don't want to be taken to the cleaners. Anyone out there in San Diego have an honest co. they've been dealing with for regular service?

Thanks

Most of the problems here seem to be related to the intake gaskets. When plugs are changed by inexperienced technicians and the old gaskets are re-used, leaks develop causing vacuum problems, (rough idle, rainy day problems, etc.
The other big problem seems to be transmissions. The only units that don't seem to have transmission problems are the XLT 4x4's with the towing package. This is because the towing package includes a transmission cooler unit that sits in fron of the radiator. Without the additional cooling capacity, the CD4E transmissions used in the Escapes fail prematurely. So, if you have any model that does not have the towing package, you can expect the transmission to fail from excessive heat build up. So, please change fluid often! (or buy an after market cooler and install it)

The clunking sound when going over bumps is caused by the front stabliizer link bars. These are fairly inexpensive and really easy to change. You can do it in your garage with minimal knowledge and tools. Just a couple of bolts on each one.

The Idle Air Control valve can cause idle problems if sufficient gum builds up inside, but the valve can be removed and cleaned.

By the way, it's always a good idea to change fluids at the recommended times. The transmission fluid should be changed every 30 to 40,000 miles. The engine oil should be changed every 3 to 5,000 miles. This is cheap insurance. I have never heard of a transmission failing when the scheduled maintenance is followed.The first change at 30 to 40,000 is critical. Most people just don't do maintenance.

I hate to say this, but most so called auto-technicians out there really have no clue as to what they are doing. Most use the replace parts method of troubleshooting, so they never really learn how to solve problems (something that most all children DO NOT LEARN in school anymore).
A sad commentary on the state of our country.

I am currently undergoing the idle issue on the 2001 Ford Escape V6's and I'm so glad to have found this page, it's been very helpful and GBS above really knows what he or she is talking about. I also would check hoses just to be safe from time to time too. I love this car and hate the mechanical issues, and you can't always trust every mechanic, just other peoples cures for the escape. Check into the idle control valve and intake gaskets, it makes perfect sense! Thanks, big help here!

GBS Is on the right on the money! My girlfriend owns a 2001XLT and nothing but problems, It sure goes through brake pads but that's the least of it. For starters the tranny failed, this cost $6000.00 Then a very rough idle when it was cold, living in Canada this was almost everyday. Changed some expensive parts out that were not the problem, then we changed the upper intake gaskets. $1000.00 later... Problem solved! Now the lemon has no power and idles rough again. Unplugged the vacuum line to the ERG valve and that fixed the rough idle problem. It seems that the loss of power on the highway may be stemming from one of the three catyletic convertors now plugging up. At least that's what the mechanics figure. I'm going to go to a muffler shop and see if it can be bypassed with a piece of pipe instead because they're expensive and hard to get at. It's going up for sale or trade after this is repaired for sure. I also found out that escape engines are made by MAZDA!

hi folks. same problems with o1 escape starts hard runs like shit in the am when cold. usually i have to plug in the block heater so it will start in the am, yes it is gas the engine came from canada after the first one detonated 700 miles away from home but thats a different story. ive just recently figured out the stalling and rough running problem {I THINK} it has to do with the egr its either the {DPFE} or the {EGR} will post more later about this after i know for sure that cured the problem.

good luck all

I have a 2001 Escape and it was fine this morning.. now it won't stay running. Any suggestions before I get hosed by a mechanic? Also, if anyone actually has a class action suit because of the transmission.. please include me! I know that will be the next thing to go. It's a shame too.. I love my car but don't like problems.

Hi everybody, I was wondering if buying a 2004 ford escape with 65,000 miles in very good condition for $7,000 a good deal?

Boy did I chance across a great resource. I've had my 2001 Escape since September 2000 and it has generally been a great little vehicle for me. However, my sunroof quit on me last Summer, the back hatch and window lock whenever they feel like it so I have to check them everytime I get out. Luckily, the key does the trick. What I was researching was the problem with my battery light staying on for the last year. Had it in the shop and the dealer mechanics couldn't figure it out. Got to have my battery and alternator checked as an added bonus. I was considering buying another vehicle this Summer but changed my mind because my Escape has been running well even with the few mechanical malfunctions. Just had my 90k maintenance done at 89k thinking I'm set for the Winter. Guess from what I've read, I'd better be on the look out for major problems. Looks like I'll be trading it in after all. Thanks for all the great stories!

HEY, PLEASE READ THIS!!!!! I have replaced my intake gaskets, fuel filter, spark plugs, bad hoses, coil packs, and so on so forth on my 2001 Ford Escape with 83K miles. It still is stalling upon startup after a cold or rainy day or night and the only way to drive it when this occurs is braking and accelerating to prevent it from stalling which is very nerve-wrecking for anyone who has experienced this problem. Not too mention that the check engine light has never came on due to this, so I thought it could be the fuel pump, but it would not be a sporadic thing if this was the case. I am the second owner of this vehicle, so I have no clue what they repaired before I got it, I purchased it at 59K miles and I service it as directed, so I take very good care of it--it drove great for 20K miles and then I've been replacing things to eliminate the problem and try to find the reall source. I have been searching for answers and i see that some of you are too, try this website:
http://consumerguideauto.howstuffworks.com/2001-to-2004-ford-escape-2.htm
and see if it helps those who haven't been getting answers from the typical mechanic out there hunting for his/her next big dollar.
I love my escape, but if I have to dump lots of money into it, I won't think it's really worth advising others to purchase one. It's got to be a recall of some sort or some kind of wire-shortage for it to be crazy one minute and not the next. If anyone out there has had any luck with curing their stalling issue please tell us all!!!!!!

I actually have a 2003 Escape, but I am pretty sure it is the same model as the 2001 (atleast all of the recalls seem to be for 2001-2003). I have not only the stalling problem...which happens sporadically sometimes more often than others but recently it seems like almost every time I slow down or sit at a stop light it dies. Before having this problem I 1st started having a problem with the thing even starting at all...this started happening the night after I bought it. The only thing that makes it start is sprayong starter fluid into the air intake thing (sorry, I am NOT a mechanic!) I haven't taken it in to the dealer (or anyone) yet because its till kind of runs (just very annoying and sometimes scary). The thing is that I live [aycheck to paycheck with two little ones and they want $125 to even look at it...so as long as it gets me to work and such I guess I will just live with it. Any suggestions would be wonderful!

I have a 2001 Escape with 97k and I just found out this morning that the transmission is spent. No warning of any kind. Other than routine maintenance, I have had not had any major problems with it. It sounds like (from all of the other replys above) that the transmission problem may lie from the lack of a tranny cooler. I am going to have one installed with this new tranny.

Sign me up for the law suit, this is rediciulous.

If anyone is hearing a clunking noise from the front end when going over the smallest of bumps, it is the lower control arm bushings. Mine are bad and I found this out by completely disassembling the front end. My local dealer advised me that this is a common problem and that the entire control arm has to be replaced (bushings are not available seperately). They told me tha this is why they carry 5 of each side in stock.

I was thinking of buying another Escape for my wife, but not after reading of all of the problems listed. I'm not willing to take on the expenses which may lie ahead.

I have been doing some research on the 01-03 and found some information that may be helpful.

First, If the vehicle is stalling at slow speeds or low idle, it is possible due to a fuel-air mixture error. The dealer has to reprogram the Powertrain Control Module (NHTSA Recall History).

If the engine runs at high rpm and slowly returns to normal, it is possible that the accelerator cable is corroded.

If you have a coolant light is on and you have changed the coolant, thermostat, and gasket, disconnect/remove the level sensor in the bottom of the overflow resivor. I had this same problem and when I removed the sensor, the light has been off since. It worked for me. It's worth a try on yours.

I have been doing some research on the 01-03 and found some information that may be helpful.

First, If the vehicle is stalling at slow speeds or low idle, it is possible due to a fuel-air mixture error. The dealer has to reprogram the Powertrain Control Module (NHTSA Recall History).

If the engine runs at high rpm and slowly returns to normal, it is possible that the accelerator cable is corroded.

If you have a coolant light is on and you have changed the coolant, thermostat, and gasket, disconnect/remove the level sensor in the bottom of the overflow resivor. I had this same problem and when I removed the sensor, the light has been off since. It worked for me. It's worth a try on yours.

I own a 2001 ford escape, 4cyl and 5 speed and this baby goes evrywhere for me im in vancouver,canada, so lotsa snow and rain and i have had no problems with her at all i love this vehicle!! I guess i lucked out, I wil never give it up, she is just about to go in for the first full maintenece since owning it 2 years ago (aside from usual oil changes)its been cared for very well, Idle is a little low in the winter mornings but never stalls and goes away quickly, but now from reading these stories i can maybe prevent some of that from happening, this is a great site!

I have a 2001 Ford Escape XLS. I purchased it a year ago with 64,000 miles and she runs great ( SO FAR )With 102,000 miles I have replaced the cluth, IAC sensor and regular oil change. I just replaced the wires for the first time and she is running better than ever. The only issue with this model is the idel moves up and down on some occations. I was told when I installed the new IAC sensor I should have got it reprogramed so that is my next step. From reading the postings above it sounds like the XLT and Automatic transmissions have the major issues. I paid $5500.00 for mine and dont regret it AT ALL.......................Hope things look up

i have 2001 ford exscape v6..the engine light stay on..i only have 67000...after reading the manual book that comes with the suv it stated to upgrade the gas to see if the light goes off. i upgrade the gas and 30minutes later my transmission failed while driving on the highway

I too am the sad owner of the 2001 Ford Escape. I have the V6 XLT. I bought it brand new in '01, and have had MANY problems with it. Just to name a few...I haven't been able to open the driver's side door or the front passenger side door from the outside in 4 years. I took it to Ford 3 times, and they said that was the ONE part that wasn't covered under my warranty. I'm about to replace the brakes for the second time in a year, and now it makes a loud hissing sound all the time. I just replaced the battery because it dies all the time, and yet it still idles when I'm at a stoplight, to the point its going to shut down at any time. When it rains, my floorboards are soaked for days until it drys out. I can't open my sunroof or the back door half the time, so I just don't use them. I recently replaced the power steering pump as well. Any idea what the hissing sound is and why it keeps idling??

I bought a 2001 Ford Escape XLS as soon as they came out, and am still driving it now. It's got 125,000 miles on it, and I've never had a single problem that I haven't directly caused (i.e. wrecking it). I've had the car for 6.5 years and it's been the perfect car for me.

Several have posted about problems after raining. Here's what I know. I haven't found the TSB yet (the dealer says there is one) but there is a known leak at the front drivers fender into the cab area. Ever noticed a little water on the floor? It first has to run through the fuse block to get there. THe water causes all kind of problems from rough idle, no idle, lights coming on on the dash, shorts in the wiper operation, and in some cases issues with the coil packs. Take a look at your fuse block and see if there is rust or water there. What this boils down to is the fender has to be removed to even get to it, typicly they replace the fuse block, and no it's not covered under warrenty. Go figure...

For everyone with the Rough Idle and Stalling listen up!
I own a 2001 Ford Escape XLS 84000, replaced spark plugs and fuel filter, this made the check engine light turn off, and drove fine for 2 weeks at least once the engine warmed up. Then the stalling and rough idle turned for the worse. Very unsafe to drive vehicle. Took it to my repair guy (find a good repair guy). Sure enough once you replace the "IDLE AIR CONTROL" Valve it solved the problem. No more rough idle and stalling. The part runs 110-150 dollars...total repair plugs filter and IAC part with labor ran me $325 ouch, but car works.

My wife and I own a 2002 escape. We bought it new in 01. We have 140,000 on it now and I only had two problems with it. The rear exhaust manifold had a crack in it which made a loud noise that I changed in a weekend and a problem where we had to take it in for he air bag light was flashing and the dealer had to change a sensor in the seat belt system. Other than that we have had good luck with it. I've now got the accelerator sticking when it's cold but have read around the forums and found that someone else had the problem with build up on the intake butterfly. I figured It had something to do with the intake just didn tear into it yet.

I'd buy another one.

My name is Kerwin from Vancouver, Canada. I bought a Ford Escape 2003 standard, 4 cylinder and the truck is a piece of shit waiting to die despite me pampering it like all other vehicles I owned. I had the tires (cheap ford crap) replaced after 60,000km (barely off roading), numerous expenses this month of Dec2007 related to the clutch interrupter switch and clutch pedal, new brakes and I am fed up with the weak mongrelization of this cheaply built suv. The interrupter switch for the clutch is made in Malta, go figure?

I hope Ford goes bankrupt fast. I never had a brake or clutch problem with a Nissan Pathfinder, Camaro or Firebired in the many years of driving. Ford, you jackasses suck and your vehicles are the worst crap in the vehicle business. Take my advice, avoid Ford at all costs.

The next thing on this piece of shit SUV to go is the stupid clutch/transmission and the local mechanic is screwing me big time as he is incompetent in fixing it. You go to the dealership and the buffoons can't get parts in for weeks and, they gouge you to death for their crooked and greedy price fixing for repairs/service. Do not buy a Ford - you will regret it no matter what shit they sell you!

We have a 2002 Escape 4x2 XLT/V6 engine that I bought my daughter and her little one. You guessed it, the tranny went out at 75K miles with no warning. I'm glad they are safe. I went to my mechanicic and then to Rhino Engines and got a reman tranny with the 3yr/75K, which they say corrects the internal problems of the earlier OEM. Now trying to decide whether to still keep it or trade it. We haven't had the other problems, yet. I don't know what changes Ford made between the 2001 and 2002 models, but most seem to be 2001. Don't like Fords, but it was a good size for them where it got OK mileage and was big enough if they got into a fender bender. Trouble is, I don't know what else I would get if we do reade it in. The other SUV's are either too big, too small, too expensive, and get poor gas mileage. I would get her a Toyota, but my lord, they are $3-5000 more than her Escape! Any ideas?

I bought my 2001 Ford Escape XLT 3.0L V6 4X4 brand new and have been very happy with its reliable service since day one. My Escape is rock solid after almost 7 years of dependable service. It has gotten me safely through several snow storms and some of the worst roads ever. It looks masculine, especially with the black trim and 255/55-18 meats that I upgraded to, and it doesn't look like a petite little RAV4 or CRV. I even added a Kenne Bell Supercharger at approx 12K miles adding an additional 100hp of output. I've had a couple of minor recall issues resolved under warranty including seat belt upgrade, DPFE sensor, and ABS checked out as a precaution - no probs found. I now have approximately 40,000 miles on the odometer and she still purrs like a kitten. I'm a gearhead and will only buy Ford products. Make no mistake; my Escape is by no means average. I've spent over 15K on performance upgrades including high-performance exhaust, brakes, motor, wheels/tires, and lowered it 2 inches and that's just the tip of the iceberg. I don't treat my Escape like just another appliance that gets me from point A to point B. However, I don't pamper it either and routinely embarrass much more expensive SUVs including a Porsche Cayenne S, several BMW X5s, Volkswagon Toureg V8's, etc, etc.. I even enjoy toying with Honda S2000's and Subaru WRX's for fun. The point of this posting is to convey that not all Escapes are doom and gloom. Visit Escape forums such as Escape-Central and you will read, more than the handful of unhappy reports that you have read here, all the rave reviews from happy Escape owners. Many of the reviews you have read here are about clutch issues, seats falling apart and tire and brake issues. News flash, tires and brakes are normal wear items. The stalling issues were resolved for most people with the PCM re-flash. The 5-spd manual transmission is made in Japan by Mazda. That's right folks, you read it correctly - Japan. Consider all the hundreds of thousands of Escapes sold and compare the few reports you read here and the percentage is miniscule.

I have a 2001 4x2 Escape and I have had every problem listed except the transmission problem with this car. The hatchback door and window open when it feels like it, I have the water level light on all the time and the check engine light is on. The engine idols bad and took it to Firestone to have the fuel pump replaced and the fuel filter and they found out that the upper manifold gasket was leaking so that was replaced as well. The car ran great for about 2 weeks then it went back to the same problems as before and now it stalls. Maybe some day Ford will remember the customers that buy there vehicles no wonder they dropped to number 2 in the world and they will keep dropping in worldwide sales every year because of this fact.

I have a 2001 Escape with the 3.0 L V6, recently had the IAC vavle replaced, and the altenator repalced twice. Truck is now having cold idle problems. I have to keep giving it gas until the truck is warmed up. I took the courtesy cover off of the engine to look around and I noticed the center tube coming out of the back of the intake manifold is collapsed when the truck is running. Can anyone tell me what this tube is? I want to try to replace this part before I pull the manifold off and check the gaskets.

I have had my 2001 EscapeXLT for 3 and a half years, and I, too had the low coolant light come on the day I bought it(used), about halfway home...my coolant level has been fine, and the dealer wanted 150$ to replace the sensor, so I just have a pretty red light on my dash all the time, had the check engine light problem, too, but I recently had to replace the battery and the light hasn't returned. I have had the back control arms replaced, and both U joints in 2007, but they could have been normal wear and tear. Now its gushing power steering fluid like crazy and I am afraid it will be too much money for me to repair...anyone else had rack and pinion troubles with the Escape? I am looking for another vehicle..definitely NOT a Ford.

My 2001 4x4 XLT 63K miles has been pretty good. Purchased it brand new in 2001. The biggest problem was when it was about a year old the moon roof got stuck. It jammed open and broke a rail. The biggest issue was the dealership I took it to for repairs has one of the worst reputations for repair work in the area and lived down to their reputation. I only took it in there because it's where I bought the car. They ended up replacing it twice when they kept installing it wrong. Finally a second Ford dealership fixed it right, while it was still under warranty. Moral of story - pay attention to reports of bad repair shops at local dealerships. I can choose between five different local Ford dealerships if I get a recall, so far I have tried three of the five.

I've done all the recalls, replaced the brakes and rotors at around 43K, and I also have the coolant light always on issue. I read at Escape Central that you can order a replacement reservoir tank (the sensor is part of it) and either replace it yourself or have it done. A new one from the dealer runs about $70, but supposedly you can find them cheaper on ebay. Other than new tires and the IAC valve replaced, it has been a very reliable car that fits my needs (short daily commute and occasional weekend craft shows) perfectly.

I just bought a used 2001 Escape, auto V6, and I am starting to have problems starting it. It is starting very hard sometimes and easy other times. I have read lots about all the problems and I am wondering if anyone else has some tips. I would really appreciate it. It has 168,000 miles on it and it is otherwise perfect. I would not want to get rid of it but I dont want this problem to get worse. Thanks

My Escape started having cold start and loping problems. I replaced the spark plugs, the intake-manifold gaskets, cleaned the throttle-body and replaced the air-filter but the problem persisted. I ordered an IAC sensor thinking that was the next thing to replace. During the IAC replacement process I noticed a crack in the vacuum line that connects the EVAP solenoid to the intake-manifold. I replaced that vacuum line and a few additional ones (Preventive maintenance) that fixed my cold start and loping problems. Before you perform expensive repairs it's worth checking your hoses. In my case I spent $200 to fix a problem that only required $2.00 worth of hose.

I have a 2001 I just noticed the front oil seal leaking 115000 miles on engine.
I have a bit of experience working on cars and I believe the catalatic converter is
Becoming clogged that causes a backpressure at higher engine rpms blows the seals.
Has anyone else had this problem with oil leaking at 100000 ? or just a leaky old ford.
I had the transmission bucking and mild knocks (auto trans) I replaced all the fluid.
And refilled it again to flush it out.
it worked fine after that, USE DEXTRON 3 FLUID!!!!!
I bought ours used with 23000 on it. I
Suspect this scenario most people have service done at shops and everybody thinks ford takes TYPE F if you top it off with type f your screwed and I bet that has happened in a lot of cases. Anyway that’s my theory.
Also we have the radiator light sensor ocassionally on too, other than that its been a fun ride.

Oh I almost forgot we had the steering rack leak too when we first bought ours . A brilliant mechanic I know used a syringe to inject silicone into the seal it was a rig but it has held 90000 pretty good rig saved 1000 dollars. Oh year and the back wiper motor siezed up ...the more I write the more I think I should sell the piece of sh*t.

REPLY TO:
29b52t9
[8:14 PM August 20, 2007]
water leaks in when it rains and gets worst when I am driving. The waters enters from the right from side and floods the passenger floor but seats, dash, etc not wet. When I lift the right window it is wet too. It seems that the leak is somewhere on the side and not in front. Does anyone know or have had a similar problem with ford escape 2001 or any escape?

Yes, 'have the same problem. I imagine you solved yours by now; and if I may please: What did you do?

We have a 2001 Ford Escape. We haven't owned it long; Already major problems. We noticed the radio started shorting out. It turns itself on even without the key in the ignition. After coming out to a dead battery we finally took it in to see what was up. It turns out that the windshield seal was so loose that water was leaking in under the dash. Our mechanic said that although there wasn't a recall for it; There was a service bulletin that it was a frequent problem with early 2001 models. The windshield was so loose that you could actually see it move with just a small amount of pressure applied to it. It is costing us a fortune to repair this and the problems it caused under the dashboard. If anyone knows of any lawsuits or recalls please post a reply and let us know. I will be contacting an attorney to see if there is anything can be done to reimmburse us for an expense that we shouldn't have to endure.

I have a 2001 xlt 4x4 V6 escape. i love ford but i never trusted the small ford engines. well i live in texas so its hot most of the year.truck ran perfect until we went up to indiana for xmas and it was cold. it started with the cold idle problem and once it warm up it was fine.well we got back and i change 3 plug coils,replace the bosch platinum fusion plugs,for just the 2 way bosch platinum plugs,and change the UPPER INTAKE GASKETS. No change,well i cleaned the IAC,and the air mass sensor,and washed my k&n filter. No change. When i bought the gaskets i got the upper intake,LOWER intake,throttle body and iac sensor gaskets, so i went ahead and replaced the iac,throttle body and LOWER INTAKE gaskets. It looks like that did it. Idles perfect in the A.M. and is running great. hope this helps. make sure you change all the gaskets. I LOVE FORD and always will but when it comes to 4 cylinders or V6 ill go with toyota or nissan, but i trust fords v8s i own a 1999 mustang cobra and a 2003 f150 and they are super strong and worry free. hope this is helpful

i have a 2001 ford e